Dallas: FEARING’S marks the solo debut of Southwestern cuisine pioneer Dean Fearing, who left the famed Mansion on Turtle Creek after 21 years. Here, sommelier Paul Botamer offers some nuanced surprises from his varied wine list. Take, for instance, a dry Marcel Deiss muscat with Fearing’s signature torilla soup, or the smoky, chocolate overtones of Chateau Camplong’s Le C de Camplong from Corbieres for buffalo tenderloin. A crowning glass of Rotta’s Black Monukka sherry from Paso Robles tames all those feisty flavors with its caramel nuttiness.
– Bill Addison